- Francelia Bahena
When we talk about references in fashion photography, the most frequently mentioned names are usually Tim Walker, Richard Avedon, Annie Leibovitz, or perhaps Steven Meisel — and of course, they are references! But there are also other names that sometimes get lost in the international history of fashion, and in Mexico, one of those names that until now had not received the recognition she deserves is the photographer Elfie Semotan.
Elfie Semotan was born in 1941 in Austria, but in her desire to explore the possibilities of the still image, she moved at a young age to different parts of Europe to gain experience and develop her skills as a photographer. Perhaps the collaboration that positioned her internationally and expanded the reach of her work was the one she carried out with the designer — also Austrian — Helmut Lang, photographing the backstage of his runway shows for more than 10 years.

Photo of backstage in a Helmut Lang runway by Elfie Semotan. Courtesy of Tejido Cardinal for Galería Campeche.
Her work converges at the intersections of art, history, and fashion. It is recognized for its theatrical character, combining clearly staged settings with everyday objects or spaces. She herself has stated that she draws inspiration from American photographers such as William Eggleston and Robert Frank, but also from the religious paintings of Rembrandt and Caravaggio, as well as from depictions of the mundanity of daily life by artists like Edward Hopper and Roy Lichtenstein. Because a great photographer is filled with references that she absorbs in order to regurgitate them as art.
Courtesy of Tejido Cardinal for Galería Campeche.
Courtesy of Tejido Cardinal for Galería Campeche.
Her work converges at the intersections of art, history, and fashion. It is recognized for its theatrical character, combining clearly staged settings with everyday objects or spaces. She herself has stated that she draws inspiration from American photographers such as William Eggleston and Robert Frank, but also from the religious paintings of Rembrandt and Caravaggio, as well as from depictions of the mundanity of daily life by artists like Edward Hopper and Roy Lichtenstein. Because a great photographer is filled with references that she absorbs in order to regurgitate them as art.
Photo of landscape of Elfie Semotan. Courtesy of Tejido Cardinal, available at Galería Campeche.
Elfie Semotan finding beauty in everyday life. Courtesy of Tejido Cardinal, available at Galería Campeche.
Courtesy of Tejido Cardinal, available at Galería Campeche.
Elfie Semotan is a master with the poise and patience required to wait for the right moment to click the shutter, and her work is being exhibited—and sold—for the first time in Mexico at Galería Campeche (Campeche 130, Roma Sur, Mexico City), Tuesday through Saturday from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m., through January 21, 2023.
December 1, 2022